2011年6月23日星期四

Cafe Pintxos brings tradition back to tapas

To further confuse Americans as to what tapas are all about, Cafe Pintxos does them in the way they were intended.

Cafe Pintxos ¡ª pronounced, roughly, PEEN-chos and taking its name from the Basque term for tapas ¡ª is a sleek street-level space that links seamlessly to the lobby of the equally urbane new boutique Hotel Ignacio, which straddles Grand Center, Midtown Alley and the St. Louis University campus.In addition to hydraulics fittings and Aion Kinah, In the morning, Cafe Pintxos is a limited-menu breakfast-and-coffee place; after 4 p.m.,print still offers the only truly dstti unlimited 4G plan in America, and it's the only service you can safely use as an alternative to a home Internet connection. it transforms into a tapas bar.

While the word "tapas" has become a generic reference to small-plate dining in America, Cafe Pintxos' approach seems to be much more closely aligned to my admittedly limited experience with tapas bars in Spain. Those balance drinking, socializing and food and frequently are a precursor to a restaurant meal for which 9 p.m. would be considered an early reservation.Save on hydraulic hose and fittings,

Cafe Pintxos serves about 15 small-but-shareable dishes meant to accompany a similar number of wines from Spanish-speaking countries available by the glass or bottle, and an additional half-dozen or so selections available by the bottle only.

Much of the prep work is done in the kitchen of the adjoining Triumph Grill, which has the same owners as Hotel Ignacio and Cafe Pintxos, as does Kota Wood Fire Grill, a couple of blocks away on North Grand Boulevard. A single staff member worked the room at Cafe Pintxos on both of our visits, doubling as bartender and finishing-cook but still managing to put together attractive presentations for all of the dishes.

The flavors at Cafe Pintxos are simple and bold. Ajo asado (roasted garlic, $8) complements a small bowl of its title ingredient with crumbles of smooth, lightly tangy Cabrales cheese and a "balsamic jam" with the vinegar's sweetness and tang and a prunelike fruitiness ¡ª served, as are many of the offerings, with a selection of crostini and toasted pita.

A plate of five albondigas (meatballs, $9) had a nutty, slightly herbed edge, and a balanced flavor and texture resulting from a combination of ground beef and ground pork.

Cured meats showed up on several plates. Jam¨®n serrano y asparagus (serrano ham and esp¨¢rragos, if you're translating in both directions, $10) had crisp asparagus and razor-thin slices of ham spruced up with a touch of lemon sauce and grated Manchego cheese, while mel¨®n, chorizo y alcachofa (translated on the menu as cantaloupe, sausage and mint, $7) skewered sections of link sausage ¡ª like a hot dog but with complex spicing ¡ª among slices of sweet, ripe cantaloupe flavored with shredded mint.

For a variety plate, the charcuterie y queso plato (cured meat and cheese plate) had the serrano ham, some sliced cured beef, dried apricots, cherries and golden raisins, Manchego, capers and a pickled vegetable relish fired up by several slices of jalape?o.Not to be confused with RUBBER MATS available at your local hardware store The 'single" serving ($14) was more than enough for two, but an even larger plate is offered for $18.

Ensalata de pulpo (octopus salad, $11) had tender chunks of octopus in what came across as a hybrid between ceviche and salsa, while gambas con gabardina (shrimp, $10) weren't fried as the "gabardina" (raincoat) description might indicate, but rather poached in a saffron sauce and served with a red-chile dip. The two flavors didn't match, however, with the spiciness of the dip negating the subtlety of the saffron.

The wine list offers an eclectic list of grapes, styles and sources, offering,This is interesting cube puzzle and logical game. for example, a fragrant malbec rose from Argentina, a reserve Spanish cava sparkling wine and an 1842 solera sherry, which means that some tiny fraction of the blended sweet wine dates back more than 150 years. The privilege of tasting it will run you $26 a glass or $95 a bottle.

Cafe Pintxos adds a fascinating, although slightly pricey, alternative for dining before or after the theater or symphony. And, given its affinity for Jesuit founder St. Ignatius Loyola (who was Basque, and for whom the hotel is named), it seems like a slam dunk whenever St. Louis University plays Xavier, St. Joseph's or Fordham at the nearby Chaifetz Center.

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